Random Events

Random stuff tonight, if only for a few hours. I wanted to double-check that the engine mounts were actually connected to the suspension risers (properly, the front turrets) and they are. This impacts me because I was hoping that the modifications the PO of the black car did not render this un-usable to me. No such luck. I wanted to totally rebuild each side of the front suspension and then essentially swap it out. Of course, that may not have worked in the long run based on the shims and alignment and all, but that was my idea. Now, at some point, I will pull off and rebuild one side at a time.

After that realization, I moved on to taking a closer look at the heater valve that I recently acquired from High Point Imports in High Point, NC. Sorry, it doesn't appear that they have a website, but Scott there has hooked my up on a few occasions with new-to-me parts that I asked to buy on my favorite forum.

Top View. It was seized upon delivery.

All I really wanted was the heater valve flange because I assumed (and Scott recommended) that I was going to get a whole new valve. But for an extra $10 or so, I got the bracket and the heater valve, so I went with it. I soaked the valve in white vinegar over night and then decided to take it apart. Unfortunately, due to my impatience, I snapped both bolt heads off of the flange. I got one broken bolt out but the other is still in there, with nothing to grab onto. I'll have to be careful removing that as the flange is brass and, therefore, pretty soft.

The valve is put together in a twist-lock fashion. If you spin the top of the valve, it will come off. You can kind of see if the above picture the tabs that run around the outside, large diameter of the valve and the little nubs that are sticking out. To assemble, those nubs would be under the tabs.

Twist-lock cap off.

I pulled that cap off, after removing the split-washer and sleeve. Under that metal "cap" in the above picture that looks horribly rusty (it was), is the rubber diaphragm. The shaft is connected to the plunger that actuates the diaphragm.

Cap and plunger removed, exposing rubber diaphragm.

Then, some more disassembling and back into the vinegar bath to remove the residual rust.

Flange removed...there is still a bolt in there on one side.

Hopefully removing the bolt won't be too bad. I intend to drill a small hole and heat it up real good and see if I can coax the thing out of there. I had the bolt turning with my kick-ass pliers, but it sheared on me. Too damn impatient and I know better. But, it looks like I will be able to easily save the valve itself, which is going to save me about $25 from ordering one new, so there's that.