Hi everyone! After a bit of vacation, it's time to get back to working on Dorothy. I actually did the work below before I left, so now I'm caught up. Here's the video:
Since I had the new rubber grommet, which is integral to the handbrake operating properly, I wanted to see how it all comes together. It's surprisingly complicated (to me, anyway). But, I had all of the required parts (well, mostly) and the workshop manual, so I was ready to go.
As a little refresher, here's the drawing from the workshop manual. If you see a number(s) following a part name, it refers to this drawing.
The handbrake lever (4).
I was missing one of the small clevis pins (23, 25, 41) so I took a long one that I had laying around and made it fit my needs.
Getting ready to drill a new hole for the cotter pin.
Original (L) and modified.
Original (L) and modified.
That sorted, I moved on to routing the cable and getting it fitted properly. The relay lever (9) is supposed to sit, with the handbrake released, at a 15-degree angle.
How its supposed to sit. The picture is flipped and inverted for some reason, but it works.
I used my cam timing wheel to make a 15-degree triangle out of cardstock so that it was easier to see what I needed to do.
Template made.
Then I attached the relay lever (9) and the compensating sector (24) to the mounting bracket in the body and used the template to properly align it. That done, I taped it down to prevent movement.
Angle set.
With the angle set, the cable length is adjusted, using the clevis (40) and the large threaded portion of the front of the primary cable (37). In my case, I had to shorten the effective cable length.
Where the adjustment happens.
What is looks like from underneath.
I'm sure you can do this in the opposite order from how I did it...adjust the cable length, moving the relay lever until it sits at the right angle. I just figured it would be a bit easier with the cable not attached to the relay lever.
With the cable length set to get the proper angle, the next step is to put the cable under tension. This is done by compressing the spring (35) "about an inch" and then locking it down with the clamp bolt assembly (30-34). I'm not real crazy about how tightly this grabs, so I may have to revisit it.
Cable tensioned up.
In this condition, even though it's not connected to the rear brakes, it is possible to test the handbrake, which I did in the video. Pretty cool.
After that I moved on to fixing the crack that I put in the bonnet when I was trying to set my gaps. As I suspected, this was a crack that I previously "repaired" so it was already weak. I welded it better this time, I promise!
Crack, pre-repair.
And post repair.
And that was about it. This was only a weeknight visit so not a whole lot of time to do stuff, but progress all the same. Cheers!
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